Відео

Hi, my camera seems to work good without battery... can that be? Which exposure mode do you recommend? P dual/ a or 125?

I well come df Pl please get df for me

I literally was looking at these today with the f3 I NEED IT !!

Thank YOU! I never could have gotten started (bought it Used yesterday, no paper manual) without your guidance. Bob. ❤

Actualmente se pueden usar lentes modernos en ella y se vuelve una buena opción.

In order to put the prism on, what should the dial settings be? In order for everything to line up properly?

Thank you for your explenation. So the film advance lever is sticking in your right eye?? (my left eye is dominant). How can that be nice or good?? Or when using this camera in portrait mode...will the lever also sticking into your forehead?

thank youuuuu

love this as old camera with recent lens!

You don’t need a meter it’s a crutch. Use it sparingly. You think Don McCullin was using a meter for every shot? No! And don’t evaluate the light , evaluate the shade. Sunny 16 is causing people to under expose their negatives It doesn’t matter if it’s bright as hell in the sun. You need to look at what’s in the shade or shadows and evaluate that part of the scene. Or you’re going to under expose all the areas that aren’t in direct sunshine For example. I am outside shooting It’s bright out but a lot of the people in the scene are under a tree You don’t use f16 at 1/500 You’d shot something like f8 at 1/125 or 5.6 at 1/125 (for 400 speed film) You don’t evaluate the brightness you evaluate the darkness. You can burn down 6 stops on the bright areas in the darkroom but you can’t get the shadows back

5:47 sorry, have to give that point to the FE2... I'm not always going to remember to put the film advance back in. I'd rather it waste power for 16 seconds, which is almost nothing. My Olympus OM-2 I was notorious for forgetting to turn the camera off. I'm less forgetful with pushing the film advance back in... but it's bound to happen here and there. I'd rather it just shut off after 16 seconds.

How did you get that white body cap to stay on lol I bought mine recently , serial number starts with 222 ×××××× $ 250 total .. it actually cost me $247 but with import fee to Canada the prism is in awesome condition it is built like a tank I think it was going a bit cheaper since the serial number was 222×××××× it was one of the earliest Nikon F4

zzzzzzz!

💯🇹🇷⭐️👍 I have 1 of this F3 device, it is very clean, it is for sale, if anyone is interested, there is a video on my UA-cam channel.

Thank you for the overview! I've just got mine back from getting repaired, and i couldn’t remember how to turn it on 😅 problem solved!

Nice video. Thank you. RS. Canada

Is the rewinding knob supposed to turn when you wind it?

id get this and relive memory of my father. I use to fiddle with it when i was little . Now i grown up and realise it has f2.0 lens and how well-built this camera was

watching it in 2024 and this was done very well, thank you!

I enjoyed the video. I have wanted a MD for years now but wouldnt use it much hence why ive never bought one. I go to the football, thats the only way I would use it I think. What do you use it for mainly? I used to have a 65 Photomic F. I regret selling it, especially so soon after a CLA. I would never sell my Black 74 F2 because of that! Never! The 60s to 80s era Nikon will never be beaten as a system. Beautiful gear.

One difference not mentioned is the memory lock, pushing the self timer lever towards the lens locks the shutter speed when on automatic ,but only on the FE2 does the needle lock in the viewfinder ,on the FE if you recompose the shot the needle will move to a different value even though it is locked on a different speed .rather confusing .

Great video and tips

What a camera! Thanks for the review. I think I will track one down! Question, can it be shot effectively with the prism removed? Similar to how a Nikon F / F2 can be shot with no prism and waist level. Thanks!

I have two Nikon Fs, both with FTN finders. I find that setting the ASA is very difficult on both cameras. The silver ring should lift up to allow it to rotate around the center stationary part. But in both my cameras the ring barely budges when trying to lift it. I was hoping to see you do it. At the very end you made reference to the ASA setting but you didn’t actually change the setting. Is that perhaps because you find it hard to adjust too? Am I missing something?

How do you compensate for colored film if you don't have 160 iso/asa or below?

I ran through several FM versions in the later 1970s, ending up with an FE2. When the FA came out, it was terribly expensive, and for me, offered the matrix metering as the main improvement over the FE2. I skipped it, but it certainly is a high water mark for Nikon manual cameras. An almost unknown feature of the FA related to its ability to use either AI or AI-s lenses. One change going into the AI-s lenses was that they all had standard physical aperture mechanical dimensions, whereas the AI did not. The irregularity of the AI lenses made it very difficult for Nikon to incorporate shutter priority auto-exposure, as the auto-adjustment of the aperture had to mechanically vary with each lens. The differences were quite small, but unacceptable. The solution was that in such exposure mode, the camera takes a wide open meter reading, then shuts down the aperture to the measured exposure setting. However, before the exposure is taken, the meter reads the "shut-down" status and readjusts the exposure to compensate for any error resulting from an irregular aperture control. The function was previously incorporated in the auto-exposure system for the FG budget model as well, sort of as a test bed in developing the FA.

Great video

Do you used the 85mm of the Nikon F3AF, on this camera? Works the AF ? Thanks

Best film camera ever made

:/ i think voightlander hate barnack leicas ;/

Posiadam Nikon AF 501 w wersji amerykańskiej oznaczonej Nikon N2020 AF z obiektywem AF Nikkor 35-105mm 1:3.5-4.5 z tylną ścianką z datownikiem Nikon MF-19 i z lampą błyskową Nikon Speedlight SB-20. Całość- komplet w doskonałym stanie. To doskonały, niezawodny sprzęt.

初めての４０００分の一シャッター速度として有名になりました。

Bendeki NİKON 1971808 NE ANLAMA GELIYOR

My viewfinder is blurry, doesn’t change when I change the focus of the lens. Any idea?

Boring

Beautiful thing

Damn this is the most absolutely mint FE2 and 50mm f1.4 I've ever seen 😍

Absolutely fantastic, I really enjoyed the presentation and would be interested in wether you think that the Nikon F2 is better, I know your biased by I’m collect cameras and have always had a soft spot for the Minolta as it was my first SLR X700 and I loved it however it’s nice to get a view from such a knowledgeable person and Northern. Regards David

Big fan you need to know how to deal with a shutter jam.diodes in the fm help work done in low light!!

Great review!! Quick question I just bought the Leica SL but aperture does not change anything in the viewfinder and cannot see the second needle am I doing something wrong!?

I have had a F3HP for a few years. Just bought a like new F3P in the box and went to use it and thought it was broken as it would not turn on! My camera not only came with box but all the papers, one of which was a small sheet of paper explaining the differences of the F3P (Used same F3HP user manual). Among the differences was the opposite switch direction! I find the little switch on the P to be easier to use than the somewhat hard to finger standard switch, but why they changed on/off direction in beyond me. Should have seen your video before using it the first time.

I had a Honeywell Sp2, which only had the light meter on when the “SW” switch was engaged. Batteries lasted for over a year with normal use. Can the meter be turned off and on with the SpF? You never said.

I just discovered that camera at a local camera dealer for 120€, together with a 35mm f/2.8 it was only 300€ - still very amazed and looking forward to the pictures it will take.

I was wondering how the Color Skopar lenses would look on a Canon rangefinder. Looks great. Do you happen to have the 28mm version of this lens? Do you know if the back end has issues hitting the light baffles of the camera?

I'm lucky to own two of these, one in black (with a nice patina after use) and one in chrome. Both have non-functioning light meters and are cosmetically poor, but these beauties give a lot of joy with amazing images. Using them and owning them is a charm, as they are the most beautiful (to me) of all the Nikkormat/FM/FE series cameras and the most technologically best (being made in the 2000s is also a benefit to their build quality and mechanical youth, especially that this was a "handicraft" project by the staff at Mito Nikon, who even rehired retired engineers to build this camera). I also feel myself more comfortable using these cameras compared to my Leicas and other cameras, probably because growing up I consider this model as my "dream" camera.

Wow Nikon FA. We go way back.

Note that the lens in his camera is made by Schneider, while the manual in German he refers to show the accessory lenses as made by Rodenstock (Heligron). A potential for error exists when you have one of the II or III Retinas and shop for one of these wide angle or telephoto accessory lenses. All of these cameras were made in Germany by Kodak. All the cameras use that same, tiny, tricky to use, bayonet mount to interchange the front lens groups. However, Kodak ordered that the versions shipped for sale in the USA be fitted with the Schneider lenses (50mm 2.0 Xenon or 50mm 2.8, depending on camera model), whereas versions for sale in Europe and elsewhere were fitted with the Rodenstock lenses (50mm 2.0 or 2.8 Heligon). While the Schneider accessory wide and telephoto components can be mechanically mounted to the Rodenstock lenses, and visa versa, they are not optically compatible. Using them cross-fitted will degrade the resulting images obtained. It is said that the Schneider and Rodenstock lens sets are equal in optical performance, but there clearly are some slight differences. Similarly, before you buy one of these bodies, check the serial number on the body and on the 50mm front lens group. They should have the same number, because they are factory matched for best optical performance. Sometimes a front group will get lost or damaged, and the unscrupulous seller will swap a front lens from another camera - do not buy.

This camera looks beautiful in black!

This is my dream film SLR. I think it's the best fully mechanical ,all manual 35mm SLR ever made.

Very good viedo my father just gave me the very same camera with 3 lenses and extra accessories like the flash adapter . Truly a old school Camera.